🔗 Share this article Balenciaga's Designer Advocates Female Emancipation with Relaxed Balenciaga Collection. Although fresh talent at Chanel and Dior have generated significant buzz during this Paris fashion week, it was the debut from the iconic brand that truly captivated the public's attention. The presentation featured a stunning front-row presence: Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, making her first European appearance in a trio of years. On Saturday night in the city of lights, the razzle-dazzle of other major houses – plus another high-profile guest – paled in comparison with the overwhelming presence of the Balenciaga show. Meghan, Duchess of Sussex delivered immense glamour and excitement to the Parisian runway. Until that moment, the prevailing sentiment surrounding Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut had been relatively serene. The fashion house is a venerated institution, and Piccioli is universally praised as a world-leading designer. Additionally, he is admired for his image of the kindest personality in the business. It was widely believed that extravagant catwalk stunts had departed the house of Balenciaga with the move of Demna, known for his bold style to Gucci. But, even the nicest guys pull off unexpected moves, and the royal benediction significantly amplified the overall excitement. The designer sees himself as an master builder, crafting silhouettes that do not contact the body. Intriguingly, the core concept of the collection's guiding philosophy, as he detailed it after the show, was female emancipation. His initial inspiration was the iconic sack dress from 1957, a silhouette that maintains distance from the body, avoiding emphasis on nor constricting a natural body shape. According to Piccioli that this look was a radical expression of a evolving cultural mood that was beginning to move from the conservative norms of the 1950s towards the progressive 1960s. “It was about progress for women. It liberated women from the constraints of clothing that emphasize the physical form and talk about their body. The sack dress enabled women to be free in space.” The brand's legendary shapes were included in the presentation, such as this ‘cocoon’ coat. Garments that maintain their own shape are fundamental to the identity of Balenciaga. The designer likened this creative process to being an architect: building forms that do not touch the body, while constantly considering the individuals who will inhabit and move within them. The original designer was deeply interested in the body and with textiles, and with a key factor – the space in between.” The opening look was a contemporary update of the iconic dress, elongated to an floor-grazing length, worn with opera gloves – but also with oversized sunglasses that acted as a clear homage to the futuristic edge of the previous designer's tenure. He, who at 58 sports beaded necklaces and radiates an calm, bohemian vibe, rejects the idea of seeing fashion as an ego battle. He believes that it is “cooler” for designers to appreciate each other’s talents. The creative director mentioned that he was aiming for a harmonious balance between the haute couture heritage of the brand, and its more modern casual influences. The brand's legendary shapes were included in the collection: a structured coat, this time in a vibrant poison green, and a A-line dress in a dramatic violent purple. The phenomenon of Parisian style has become a lucrative industry. Michael Rider is an American man, but he understands this aesthetic perfectly. He previously worked with a fashion icon during her tenure at the house, and then devoted a half-decade building Polo Ralph Lauren into a flagship for accessible taste. Now back at Céline, he is infusing the democratic approach of Polo to Parisian style. He presented classic outerwear, natural accessories, and luxury fabrics draped on handbags – the signature details of French-girl chic – designed with cheerful tones, with an upbeat American tone. This is not an exclusive label, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” Rider stated following the event. My desire is that everyone feels desirable in the brand. When you wear this brand, you may not have the wildest design, but you have the best coat, and you have the self-assurance to wear it.”